How Crown Reduction Is Done

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There are many instances wherein a canopy’s size is not properly reduced to the desired extent, and some species like the Beech are not suitable for a crown reduction.

When a tree is over pruned in order to accomplish a desired effect, it can start a decay in its trunk or in its branches. As a result, a fast epicormic growth is stimulated.

Crown reduction as a preferred method

The removal and the replacement to a tiny maturing plant comes as a choice that reduces the input of one’s resources. When a homeowner wants to minimize a tree’s height, crown reduction (below) is mostly preferred in comparison to tree topping.

Crown reduction is not suggested as the method to minimize the risks of a tree blowing over during a storm. Instead, crown thinning is the better method to reducing storm damage for a structurally stable tree.

Crown reduction may be considered specifically when a big and mature tree’s root system has substantially decayed that makes it a potential threat.

How is crown reduction done?

The main goal is to be able to make some cuts where the leaves are left intact on a tree’s outer edge. The pruning cuts shouldn’t be too visible when you look at the tree after the pruning process.

Rounding over, shearing, tipping and topping are not the ideal techniques for tree reduction since they weaken the structure of a tree as well as cause decay.

It is recommended that when more than thirty percent of the tree’s leaves are removed, the job should be done in two sessions with twelve months apart in order to minimize the sprouting as well as start removal.

The longest parts of the tree’s main branches should be cut back to smaller lateral branches that will assume the role of a branch. Usually, this is one-third or one-half of the removed branch’s diameter.

Excessive sprouting usually happens when a cut back is done to a small tree branch. It is unacceptable to expect 15 – 20 percent and more in reduction of a tree’s size from a well-executed tree reduction process.

 

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